If it is one place I love to go, it is Käringön of the west coast of Sweden. I’ve spent my childhood summers lying on my belly looking for shellfish on the bridges and jumped off the cliffs into the clear water.
The island boasts a rich history that traces back several centuries. Since the 1600s, this charming island has been inhabited, pulsating with a vibrant maritime heritage. Historically, Käringön thrived as a bustling fishing community. The enduring wooden houses serves as a poignant testament to its seafaring past. The island’s economy was intimately intertwined with the sea. Fishing and boat building formed the cornerstone of the inhabitants’ livelihoods. Over time, Käringön has gracefully transitioned from a flourishing fishing village to a beloved haven for those in pursuit of natural beauty and tranquility, all while retaining its maritime allure and character.
Furthermore, the island’s legacy is deeply rooted in the stories of its inhabitants. My heritage comes from generations of islandfolk. For instance, my great-grandfather, August, was a fisherman who called Käringön home. He is somewhat of a celebrity, featured in several known photographs. The poem below is inspired by him.
The Wind Pined Isle
I long to go back to the wind-pined isle.
Far out in the ocean, no land to see for miles.
Where my great-grandfather placed the poles for his house
and went out to fish every day of his life.
He lived in symbiosis with rock, sand, and sea.
With the seagulls screeching and the yelping of the seals.
His skin was hardened by the wind and sun.
By the salt of the ocean and the fishnets on his thumb.
Bleached nets hung out to dry as the dawn broke over the sky.
The mackerel danced, as oars broke the surface
The water bowing down with every stroke,
when my great-grandfather took out his boat.
Hair white as silk and with the seaman's eyes.
He rowed the boat on rough seas, smoking his pipe.
Stared out to the horizon with a knowing look.
Like the men that came before him, cleaning their hooks.
The wind whispers his name even today.
Through cracks carved out by the embrace of the waves.
Through the bridges and fishing huts painted in red.
Through the crab's lonely scramble at the bottom of the lake.
Sometimes I wonder what it would be like,
to be one with the rocks and ocean of salt.
Below is a poem that I wrote about my heritage;
The Call from the Sea
I’ve always been a daughter of the sea.
A long line of island folk descends before me.
Skin hardened by the harshness of the wind.
They felt the call of the ocean from within.
Knowing every whisper of the ebb and flow.
I feel it within me, it calls for me too.
The surface speaks quietly all through my core.
Is the call coming from the deep ocean floor?
Or is it the soft squeals of waves hitting the shore?
I don’t know which voice is speaking to me.
My mind is floating through streams and debris.
The only way to know is to dive in and see.
Concluding Thoughts
There are different descriptions of the origin of the name Käringön. In the harbor, there is a statue from 1986 of the “Käring” (woman), and her skirt is built like a “kummel”, a fixed sea mark. And another word for “kummel” is indeed “käring”.
Another explanation is linked to superstition. On board fishing boats, it used to be somewhat taboo with women. This changed because fishermen came to believe in both “lucky old women” and “unlucky old women”. If a fisherman met an “unlucky old woman” on the way down to the pier, he just had to turn around and go home.
The concept of “käring” became established over the years. Somewhere along the way, the word named a sea mark at Saltskär, and not far from there is Käringön.
The unique charm and rich history of Käringön create a timeless allure that continues to beckon those in search of natural beauty and tranquility. As the island transitions through time, its maritime character remains steadfast, whispering the tales of generations past. This enduring connection to the sea serves as a poignant reminder of the profound impact of heritage and the call of the ocean on the soul. This place will always have a hold on my heart.
Do you have a story to share about this place? Leave a comment below.
In the mood for some more ocean-related poetry? Read this.
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